Sebum Measurement Made Reliable:How the SebumScale™ Transforms Skin Analysis
- Emma Danciu
- Oct 1
- 5 min read
Sebum is a complex, oily mixture secreted by the sebaceous glands, and primarily associated with hair follicles. It is commonly found on the face (forehead, nose, chin (the “T-zone”) — these areas have the highest density of sebaceous glands, on the scalp—especially the forehead and the top of the head, on the upper chest and back (commonly oiler than other body parts), and on other areas —but less dense on arms, legs and lower body.
Its main components include triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Far from being just “skin oil,” sebum is an active, multifunctional substance essential for maintaining healthy skin.
Oily skin and acne are often associated with excess sebum, which is why most people know sebum as that greasy stuff that clogs pores, but what’s fascinating is that it’s actually a biological cocktail that does far more than lubricate the skin. And acne is not caused by sebum alone. It develops from a combination of factors: hormonal stimulation leading to excess sebum, abnormal keratinocyte shedding that blocks pores, proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes, and immune-related inflammation. Sebum contributes to the environment but is not the sole cause.
In fact, sebum has a vital role in skin health. Sebum is far more than “skin oil”—it actively protects, hydrates, and maintains skin health. Its key roles include:
Barrier and Moisture Regulation
Sebum mixes with sweat and epidermal lipids to form the hydrolipidic film, a protective layer that reduces water loss, shields against irritants, and keeps skin soft and flexible.
Natural Antimicrobial Defense
Certain fatty acids and lipids inhibit harmful bacteria and fungi, supporting a balanced skin microbiome.
Antioxidant Protection
Squalene neutralizes free radicals from UV exposure and pollution, protecting skin cells from oxidative stress and premature aging
Hair and Follicle Protection
Sebum coats hair strands, preventing dryness, brittleness, and environmental damage.
Support for the Skin Microbiome
Sebum nourishes beneficial microorganisms, maintaining microbial balance and overall skin homeostasis.
Because Sebum production isn’t static —it changes with circadian rhythms, hormones, diet, stress, and even the weather—making it a dynamic reflection of both your internal state and environmental pressures, balanced sebum is essential but it’s quantity matters: A thin, balanced layer protects, lubricates, and nourishes the skin, but too much sebum, however, can mix with dead skin cells and clog pores, creating the conditions for acne or a shiny complexion.
This is why quantifying sebum is crucial for multiple purposes to normalize or regulate its amount, not eliminate its protective function: For Cosmetic R&D, it objectively validate oil-control, mattifying, or hydrating product claims, in Clinical Practice, it monitors conditions like acne, seborrheic dermatitis, or dry skin disorders, and regarding Personalized Skincare, it tailors treatments and routines based on an individual’s sebum profile.
In the world of cosmetics and skincare, products are designed not to destroy sebum, but to work with it—even if sebum is healthy, excessive shine or oily texture is considered undesirable. “Oil-fighting” products often aim to absorb, mattify, or control shine, and regulate sebum at the same time.
Over-scrubbing or aggressive oil-stripping can backfire: the skin responds by producing even more sebum to protect itself, that’s why smart products aim to balance and support the skin barrier, not just attack sebum blindly.
Respect Your Skin’s Natural Oil: A Smarter Routine
Sebum is not your enemy—it’s a natural barrier, moisturizer, and microbiome manager. The key, as you now understand, is to regulate it, not strip it away. A thoughtful routine looks like this:
Gentle cleansing – Use a mild cleanser once or twice a day. Over-washing can remove sebum and trigger the skin to overcompensate, producing even more oil.
Targeted treatment – Incorporate products that balance oil production, like lightweight moisturizers or serums containing niacinamide or zinc, which help regulate sebum naturally without harshly drying the skin.
Absorb and mattify when needed – Blotting papers or light mattifying creams can control shine temporarily, but they support, rather than replace, your skin’s natural sebum balance.
Protect the barrier – Always finish with sunscreen or a barrier-supporting cream. Healthy sebum works best when your skin’s barrier is intact.
Lifestyle matters – Hydration, balanced diet, and stress management all influence sebum production. Remember, your skin reflects your internal state as much as your external care.
Bottom line: A smart skincare routine works with your skin’s natural oils, keeping sebum in balance so it can continue its vital roles—moisturizing, protecting, and maintaining a healthy ecosystem—while keeping shine under control.
 | Interesting fact: Everyone’s sebum composition is unique—almost like a fingerprint. Researchers are even exploring its potential use in forensic science and medical diagnostics (for example, sebum profiles are being studied as early markers for Parkinson’s disease. A 2025 study in Scientific Reports utilized sebum RNA profiles to detect PD, demonstrating the feasibility of using sebum as a diagnostic biofluid*). |
Meet the SebumScale™:
Precise, reproducible measurement of sebum for clinical
and research applications
Sebum measurement relying on methods like tape stripping, absorbent papers, photometry or swab are at best approximate, providing no accurate quantification per cm² —something only the SebumScale™ can achieve with scientific precision. It gives clinicians and researchers fast, reliable, and reproducible sebum measurements like never before.
What makes the SebumScale™ unique is that it is Fast & Non-Invasive as measurements take just seconds. It is highly Reproducible with standardized contact eliminating variability, and it is portable & Convenient as it is a compact device suitable for labs, clinics, or field studies.
The SebumScale™ measures sebum directly through a probe applied to the skin surface. Controlled contact pressure provide immediate, quantitative results.
It eliminates sampling tapes and external analysis, providing direct, on-site measurement. Its combination of precision, simplicity, and portability ensures consistent data collection, even across large study groups or repeated measurements over time.
The SebumScale™ integrates measurement into a single, direct step: CONTACT—MEASURE—RESULT.
Sebum Measurement with the SebumScale™
 | Individual sebum excretion values of six volunteers (26 -42 years old) measured with the SebumScale before and after facial cleansing.
Conclusion There is a wide variation between typical healthy human skin’s sebum excretion rates. |
The SebumScale™ is ideal for Cosmetic and personal care brands validating claims around oil-control or hydration, Clinical researchers and dermatologists studying sebum-related conditions, Pharmaceutical developers assessing sebaceous activity in trials, and Academic researchers exploring skin physiology and barrier function.
Conclusion
Sebum plays a critical role in maintaining healthy skin, from supporting the skin barrier to balancing lipids and microbiome activity. Accurate sebum measurement is essential for clinical research, cosmetic claim validation, and personalized skincare.
The SebumScale™ delivers direct, reproducible sebum assessment with its probe-based sebum device, providing precise sebum quantification per cm² that traditional methods cannot match.
By using the SebumScale™, researchers and clinicians gain actionable insights into sebaceous gland activity, skin oil levels, and overall skin lipid balance, enabling more informed decisions in dermatology, cosmetic R&D, and skincare formulation. With its high-performance, non-invasive sebum monitoring, the SebumScale™ transforms sebum measurement into a reliable, science-backed tool for modern skin research.
Reference
*Uehara, Y.,Ueno, Sl., Amano-Takeshige, H. et al. Non-invasive diagnostic tool for Parkinson’s disease by sebum RNA profile with machine learning. Sci Rep 11, 18550 (2021). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-98423-9
PUBLICATIONS
MDPI – APPLIED SCIENCE
Timudom, T.; Chaiyasut, C.; Sivamaruthi, B.S.; Tiampasook, P.; Nacapunchai, D. Anti-Sebum Efficacy of Phyllanthus emblica L. (Emblica) Toner on Facial Skin. Appl. Sci. 2020, 10, 8193. https://doi.org/10.3390/app10228193
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Large-scale skin metagenomics reveals extensive prevalence, coordination, and functional adaptation of skin microbiome dermotypes across body sites.
Chengchen Li, Aarthi Ravikrishnan, Indrik Wijaya, Ahmad Nazri Mohamed Naim, Jean-Sebastien Gounot, Stephen Wearne, Yue Yuan On, Eliza Xin Pei Ho, Eileen Png, Junmei Samantha Kwah, Shree Harsha Vijaya Chandra, Qi Yan Ang, Minghao Chia, Ng Hui Qi Amanda, Srinivas Ramasamy, Yik Weng Yew, Marie Loh, Ruo Yan Ong, Faith Ng, Sze Han Lee, James Chan, The HELIOS Study team, Viduthalai Rasheedkhan Regina, Thomas Dawson, John Chambers, John Common, Niranjan Nagarajan bioRxiv 2025.04.24.650393; doi: https://doi.org/10.1101/2025.04.24.650393
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JOURNAL OF COSMETIC DERMATOLOGY
Palmieri B, Vadalà M, Al Bzour BM, Di Carmine M, Scarano A. A new easy technique to identify the correct artificial hair implantation site: A case series and preliminary results. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024; 23: 614-621. doi:10.1111/jocd.16015
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